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Found 4 results

  1. Hello. I've already configured without wireless adaptor. (One room, 2 base station, 4 PCs with each HTC VIVE connected.) I want to change this configuration to wireless. Can each PC always recognize the same HTC VIVE? For example, even after booting. Are you affected by other wireless adaptors? Is there any other problem you can expect? Do you have any guide or reference materials? Data on wireless connections to multiple PCs is hard to find. Thanks.
  2. Running Steam VR - as the title says, only when exiting a game does it grey out - sometimes takes a couple games but consistently does it - reboot Steam VR and its good - can play for an hour without issue till i exit a game - i can boot up play a game for 3 minutes then try to exit and it greys out. Tired a different wireless receiver, same issue. Tried different PCI-e Slots, no change. tried moving wireless sensor, tethered does not occur - only noticed this issue AFTER upgrading to Win 11 - HTC Vive Pro, i9-12900k CPU, Nvidia 3080 GPU, 32 gig RAM, Win 11 - any help would be appreciated - thanks
  3. I've been looking for entries on a problem like this, and never found any. I finally resolved my problem and want to share the solution I found. The issue is this: While using the wireless adapter, the image is solid when my head is still, but "jerks" every 3 to 5 degrees when turning my head. I have no problems tracking the controllers, and have the luxury of having 4 base stations (oh blessed retirement!). NO issues when wired, but I turn way too much when playing Skyrim VR or Swords and Sorcery, and get tangled up: (at my age, tripping and falling is NOT an option). I didn't have this issue before, and swapped out drivers and displays, even upgrading to dual 2080RTXes, to no effect. The problem actually has two components, making it extremely difficult to solve in the first place. Issue #1 solution: built-in (motherboard mounted) and add-on bluetooth adapters DON'T WORK. Like it or not, keep using the Link box, since the software seems to be looking FIRST for that device's bluetooth ID, and interfaces directly with the hardware to get the delay down, then settles for other bluetooth receivers but has to go through the bluetooth drivers, adding overhead that is enough to throw off the timing. Tight Specs, I must say. Issue #2 solution: Link box CABLES. I had too many USB A to A cables and seemed to have accidentally used a USB 2.0 speed cable instead of the vive USB 3.0 cable. It makes sense that if the timing is so critical that going through the standard bluetooth drivers can throw off the timing, using slower cables would have the same effect. Obvious Warning: not every USB cable with blue plastic is true USB 3.0. (Like Duh). I hope nobody else has this problem, but here's the solution that I found. Hope it helps.
  4. Hi there, I recently got the Cosmos Elite so I can try out my wireless adapter with it (previously using it with the Vive Pro). While the Cosmos looks fine when I'm connected via the wired connection, when I switch over to the wireless I get a difference in the brightness. The picture quality looks fine, but the backlight appears to be visibly dimmer. This results in the color being somewhat muted and some scenes being too dark to make out all the details. I've tried it with two different headsets and I got the same result on both. Wired looks great while wireless looks dimmer by comparison. I've tried using both the official battery that's included with the Cosmos wireless adapter attachment kit as well as with my Quick Charge 3.0 compatible Anker battery but I get the same result. Any ideas? I've got a couple replacement USB cables coming to see if that makes a difference. Thanks.
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